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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.